Thrips: recognising the silvery marks and taking action

Thrips are minute, elongated insects one to two millimetres long, very common in Moroccan crops and happy to move into our homes. They rasp the surface of leaves to suck out the contents. Discreet and quick, they hide under leaves and in young shoots; you often notice the damage before you see them.

Recognising them

• Silvery or bleached patches on the leaves, as if the surface had been scratched.
• Tiny shiny black dots in the middle of these patches: these are their droppings.
• Young leaves that are distorted or marked as soon as they emerge.
• The insects themselves: shake a leaf over a sheet of white paper and you’ll see tiny pale or dark slivers moving.

Monsteras, Philodendrons, Anthuriums, Ficus and flowering plants are among their favourite targets.

Getting rid of them

1. Isolate the plant: thrips fly and jump from one plant to another.
2. Shower the foliage, top and especially underneath, to knock off as many insects as possible. Cover the soil so they don’t fall into it.
3. Spray ready-to-use black soap over the whole plant, concentrating on the undersides of leaves and the heart of young shoots.
4. Repeat every four to five days for three to four weeks: their larvae hide, and part of their life cycle takes place in the soil.
5. Scrape off and replace the top layer of soil to a depth of one or two centimetres, where the pupae hide.

Blue or yellow sticky traps pushed into the pot let you track the infestation and know when it’s over.

Preventing them

• Thrips like hot, dry air: misting around plants with a fine-mist spray bottle disrupts them.
• Inspect new plants and bunches of cut flowers, which often bring them into the house.
• Clean the foliage regularly: you’ll spot the first silvery marks early.

Need an opinion?

Send a photo of your plant to our Plant Doctor: the whole plant, a close-up of a leaf (top and underside) and the surface of the soil. The diagnosis is free, and you can also drop by the studio at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

Spider mites: spot them early and save your plants

The spider mite isn’t a spider but a tiny mite, barely visible to the naked eye, often reddish-orange, sometimes yellow or greenish. It pierces leaf cells to suck out their contents. It loves hot, dry air: summer in Rabat, the chergui wind and air conditioning give it ideal conditions.

Spotting them

• Dull leaves speckled with countless tiny yellow or white dots, which eventually turn yellow or brown.
• Very fine webbing, like silk, under the leaves and in the leaf joints, when the infestation is advanced.
• A simple test: wipe a white tissue under a leaf. Red or brown streaks: that’s them.

Alocasias, Calatheas, Marantas, Ficus and indoor palms are among their favourite targets.

Getting rid of them

1. Isolate the plant.
2. Shower the foliage thoroughly, especially the undersides of the leaves: water knocks off a large share of the mites and destroys their webs.
3. Wipe each leaf, top and underside, with cleaning gloves or a damp cloth.
4. Spray ready-to-use black soap, concentrating on the undersides of the leaves.
5. Repeat every four to five days for three weeks: a new generation hatches in under a week when it’s hot.

Stopping them coming back

• Raise the humidity around sensitive plants: mist with a fine-mist spray bottle, group plants together, or stand pots on a tray of damp pebbles.
• Keep them away from air-conditioning vents and radiators.
• Check the undersides of the leaves every week in summer: they’re far easier to treat early on.

Need an opinion?

Send a photo of your plant to our Plant Doctor: the whole plant, a close-up of a leaf (top and underside) and the surface of the soil. The diagnosis is free, and you can also drop by the studio at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

Gnats in your plants: how to get rid of them

Little black flies buzzing around your pots and taking off when you water: these are sciarids, known as fungus gnats. The adults are mostly a nuisance; it’s their larvae — tiny white worms with black heads — that live in damp soil and feed on organic matter and sometimes young roots. The good news: they almost always point to overwatering, which is easy to correct.

Why they appear

• Soil that stays permanently damp on the surface.
• A potting soil very rich in organic matter, or a bag of potting soil that’s already contaminated.
• A planter or saucer where water sits.

Getting rid of them

1. Let the surface dry to a depth of two to three centimetres between waterings: the larvae can’t survive in dry soil. This is the most effective measure.
2. Water through the saucer: the soil drinks from below and the surface stays dry. Our planters with reservoir saucers are made for this.
3. Cover the surface with a one- or two-centimetre mineral layer, such as pozzolana: the adults can no longer lay eggs in it.
4. Trap the adults with yellow sticky traps pushed into the pots.
5. If the infestation is heavy, repot in fresh, airy potting mix, such as our Signature Potting Mix, after removing the old soil.

Frequently asked questions

Are fungus gnats harmful to the plant?
For a healthy adult plant, rarely. For seedlings, cuttings and plants already weakened by overwatering, the larvae can damage the roots.

Are they fruit flies?
No: fruit flies, which are paler, hover around the kitchen and ripe fruit. Fungus gnats, black and slender, stay close to the pots.

Need an opinion?

Send a photo of your plant to our Plant Doctor: the whole plant, a close-up of a leaf (top and underside) and the surface of the soil. The diagnosis is free, and you can also drop by the studio at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Tuesday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

How to organise team building in Rabat: formats, budget, steps and mistakes to avoid

Many team-building events look alike, and many are forgotten by the following Monday. It doesn’t have to be that way: a successful team-building event depends less on the activity than on how it was prepared. Here’s a method for organising one in Rabat, from the question “why?” to the debrief, with the practical pointers (headcount, duration, venue, budget) you need to decide.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

To organise team building, work in this order: set the objective (cohesion, onboarding, celebration, relaxation), count the participants, choose a format suited to the team, decide on the venue (your premises or an outside venue), set the duration and budget, then prepare the logistics and gather feedback. A creative activity accessible to everyone, lasting 1.5 to 3 hours, works better than a performance challenge.

• Headcount: 6 to 40 people for a creative workshop; beyond that, split into sub-groups.
• Duration: 1.5 to 3 hours for a workshop; half a day for a longer format.
• Venue: your premises (no travel) or the provider’s venue (a change of scene).
• Lead time: allow four to six weeks between the decision and the date, longer at the end of the year.

Contents

• What’s the objective of your team building?
• What team-building formats are there in Rabat?
• How many participants?
• How long?
• On your premises or elsewhere?
• What budget?
• The steps to organise it
• Close-up: botanical team building
• On the day: a running order that works
• Mistakes to avoid
• How to measure success?
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

What’s the objective of your team building?

Team building is organised for a specific reason. It determines the format, the timing and how the event is presented to the teams.

An activity that puts people in competition rarely suits everyone. Quieter people fade into the background, and hierarchies reproduce themselves. Creative formats, where everyone makes their own piece, put everyone on the same level, whatever their role.

What team-building formats are there in Rabat?

These categories are pointers, not a list of providers. For a mixed team (varied ages, fitness levels and seniority), a creative workshop is one of the most inclusive formats: it requires no performance, no competition and no public speaking.

How many participants?

Headcount decides the format more than any other criterion.

At the Instant T studio in Rabat, team building accommodates up to 16 participants; on your premises, we can come for up to 40. We can also book out the studio for a team.

How long?

• 1.5 hours: the minimum for a hands-on workshop. Ideal for an extended lunch break or at the end of the day.
• 2 to 3 hours: the most common length. Enough for a complete creation and time to talk.
• Half a day: if the team building is part of a seminar, with lunch.

The longer the activity, the more you need to plan breaks, drinks and food. During Ramadan, adjust the timing and avoid long or physical activities during the day.

On your premises or elsewhere?

At Instant T, both options are available. At our Rabat studio (6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district), team building accommodates up to 16 participants: the materials are on site, the venue can be booked exclusively, and coffee and snacks are optional. On your premises, we can host up to 40 participants: materials, plants and protective covers are provided, with set-up and cleaning included, in Rabat, Salé, Témara and Casablanca. You’ll need a room with tables (meeting room, terrace or open-plan space).

What budget?

Set the budget per participant, checking what the price includes:

• Facilitation (who leads it, and how many people);
• Materials, and what each person takes home;
• Travel for the provider, or venue hire;
• Set-up and cleaning;
• Drinks and snacks, optional or included;
• Invoicing: invoice, agreement, purchase order.

As a guide, our public workshops cost 400 to 500 MAD per person (kokedama, terrarium, bonsai: see the workshops). To try the format before bringing a team, you can sign up for one of these workshops: see the dates. Team building is priced by quote, depending on headcount, venue and duration. Always ask for an all-inclusive quote so you can compare like with like.

The steps to organise it

1. Define the objective and the message you want to convey to the teams.
2. Estimate the headcount and the date, avoiding year-end closes and peak periods.
3. Choose a format suited to the team’s profile.
4. Set the budget per person and in total.
5. Request two or three comparable quotes, using the same criteria.
6. Confirm the venue: your premises or the provider’s.
7. Announce the event to participants: date, duration, venue, dress, what they’ll be doing — and what it isn’t (no performance, no competition).
8. Gather constraints: dietary requirements, allergies, mobility, toxicity to pets if the creation is going home.
9. Prepare the logistics: access, parking, times, welcome.
10. After the event, gather feedback and share photos.

Indicative timeline: decision and quote request 4 to 6 weeks before; approval 3 weeks before; announcement to participants 2 weeks before; logistics reminder 2 to 3 days before.

Close-up: botanical team building

Our own format is the botanical workshop: each participant creates something with their own hands, using simple techniques, and leaves with a living creation to put on their desk. It needs looking after, which extends the effect of the workshop long after the session.

A bespoke format is possible for a seminar, a product launch or the end of the year. To choose between terrarium and kokedama, read terrarium or kokedama: which to choose for team building. If your participants take their creation home, the choice of plant matters: see plants in an air-conditioned office. All the details are on our botanical team-building page.

How it works

1. We scope it together: headcount, duration, venue, objective.
2. We prepare the materials: plants, potting mixes, containers, protective covers.
3. We lead the session: we guide the technique, but everyone composes their own creation. We don’t do it for them.

On the day: a running order that works

For a two- to three-hour workshop, here’s a simple sequence that works for most creative activities:

Also remember to plan for carrying the creations home: a bag or box per participant avoids damage in the car or on public transport.

Mistakes to avoid

• Choosing without an objective. Without one, you can’t judge whether the event succeeded.
• Imposing a physical activity on a team with varied profiles.
• Planning it too long. After three hours, attention drops.
• Overlooking constraints: mobility, dietary requirements, Ramadan, prayer times, allergies.
• Not explaining the event in advance: people engage better when they know what to expect.
• Forgetting to measure: three questions asked the next day are enough to know what worked.
• Booking too late, when year-end periods fill up diaries.

How to measure success?

Three questions, asked the next day or the following week:

1. What did you take away from the session?
2. Did you talk with colleagues you don’t usually spend time with?
3. Would you do this kind of activity again?

A simple indicator: how many participants still have their creation on their desk a month later. That’s what an activity that leaves a trace brings. To extend the effect, office plants can also be looked after: see our maintenance and office planting pages.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the minimum group size for botanical team building?

From 6 people, up to 16 at our Rabat studio and up to 40 on your premises.

How long does team building last?

With us, 1.5 to 2.5 hours depending on the workshop: 1.5 hours for a kokedama, 2 hours for a terrarium, 2.5 hours for a bonsai; a bespoke format is possible. In general, a creative workshop lasts between 1.5 and 3 hours.

How much does team building cost in Rabat?

It depends on the headcount, venue and duration, and is priced by quote. As a guide, our public workshops cost between 400 and 500 MAD per person.

Do participants need any skills?

No. The workshop is designed for beginners: we guide the technique, and everyone composes their own creation.

Can team building be held in our offices?

Yes, on your premises, in Rabat, Salé, Témara and Casablanca. You’ll need a room with tables (meeting room, terrace or open-plan space).

How far ahead should we book?

Allow four to six weeks between the decision and the date, longer at the end of the year as diaries fill up. The quote is free and we reply within 48 hours.

Can we get an invoice or an agreement?

Yes, on request.

Can team building be combined with corporate gifts?

Yes. Giving the team an experience and a botanical gift is a common combination: see our advice on end-of-year corporate gifts.

Also worth reading

• Terrarium or kokedama: which to choose for team building?
• End-of-year corporate gifts in Morocco
• Plants in an air-conditioned office
• Which plant to give a colleague or client?

Planning team building for your team? Request a free quote on our botanical team-building page or via the business quote form: we reply within 48 hours. You can also message us on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat.

End-of-year corporate gifts in Morocco: budget, lead times and personalisation

Every year, the same question lands on the desks of management, HR and facilities teams: what to give the team and clients without falling back on the mug, engraved pen or USB stick everyone receives several of? A plant is an increasingly popular answer. But you still need to know what to order, for how much and when: botanical gifts can’t be made at the last minute. Here are the pointers to help you decide.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

For an end-of-year botanical corporate gift in Morocco, allow 150 to 450 MAD per piece depending on the collection (plant, gift box, kokedama, terrarium), from 10 pieces, with volume discounts from 20 pieces. The lead time is three weeks between approval of the quote and delivery, longer for very large runs: for delivery in December, order in October or November.

• Personalisation: wooden tag engraved with your logo, handwritten card, choice of container (ceramic, terracotta or concrete), kraft wrapping.
• Delivery: Rabat, Salé, Témara and Casablanca, or collection from the studio.
• To choose without getting it wrong: a plant that tolerates neglect, with a care sheet, rather than a demanding plant.

Contents

• Why give a botanical gift?
• What budget per gift?
• When to order for delivery in December?
• Which plant for a gift in quantity?
• How to personalise without “advertising”?
• Employees, clients, partners: tailoring the gift
• An alternative or extra: giving an experience
• Mistakes to avoid
• A word on accounting
• How to request a quote
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

Why give a botanical gift?

Classic corporate gifts have revolved around the same objects for years: engraved pens, mugs, notebooks, USB sticks, power banks. They work, but they all look alike, and recipients get several a year. It’s hard to remember who gave what.

A plant changes the nature of the exchange. It isn’t consumed, it’s cared for: placed on a desk, it stays there for months, sometimes years, quietly recalling the giver without any advertising message. It also fits more naturally into a CSR approach than a disposable promotional item — provided it’s chosen to last. That’s the point not to overlook: a badly chosen plant can wither within weeks, and the gift has the opposite effect to the one intended.

What budget per gift?

Instant T’s four collections cover most budgets:

Our pointers:

• For a group gift to all employees, The Plant or The Gift Box lets you keep to a budget for volume without sacrificing quality.
• For important clients and partners, a kokedama or terrarium makes more of an impression and looks great in photos: it’s a piece people show off.
• Volume discounts start at 20 pieces, and bespoke arrangements are possible.

Prices are those on our corporate gifts page. They’re indicative and confirmed by quote, depending on the plant, container and personalisation.

Budget examples

These estimates start from the “from” prices on the gifts page, multiplied by the quantity, before volume discount (which starts at 20 pieces). The final quote depends on the plant, the container and the personalisation.

When to order for delivery in December?

October and November. Botanical gifts aren’t made on demand, and the quantities available depend on our supplies. The earlier you order, the wider the choice.

The three-week lead time runs from approval of the quote to delivery: it doesn’t include the time you take to decide. If your gift must arrive before the holidays, start from the delivery date you want, subtract three weeks, then add some margin for internal approval. For very large runs, allow more time.

Which plant for a gift in quantity?

When you don’t know the recipient, three criteria matter more than visual impact:

1. Tolerance of neglect. A plant that copes with irregular watering survives a week’s holiday.
2. Available light. An air-conditioned or dimly lit office rules out some species: see plants in an air-conditioned office and which plants for a dimly lit office.
3. Size and format. A gift must be easy to carry, sit on a desk and not get in the way.

We’ve detailed these criteria in which plant to give a colleague or client, in the botanical gift guide and in our easy-care houseplants for Rabat. Also remember to check whether the chosen species is toxic to pets, if your recipients have any.

A care sheet changes everything: it says when to water and where to place the plant, and that’s what makes the difference between a gift that lives and a gift that dies. It’s part of The Gift Box; for the other collections, mention it in your quote request.

How to personalise without “advertising”?

A good botanical gift is understated. It doesn’t look like a freebie: the object is beautiful, and the brand appears on it discreetly. Four levers:

• The engraved tag: a wooden tag bearing your logo, attached to the plant. Discreet and long-lasting.
• The handwritten card: your message, written by hand on a card.
• The container: ceramic, terracotta or concrete — your choice.
• The wrapping: simple kraft wrapping: unwrapping is part of the gift.

Prepare your logo as a vector file (for the engraving), the card text and, if the gifts are going to several recipients, the list of addresses in advance: these are what most often delay an order.

Employees, clients, partners: tailoring the gift

For gifts in small quantities, fewer than ten pieces, the shop has a “gifts” category: see the Gifts category.

An alternative or extra: giving an experience

Some companies prefer to give a moment rather than an object: a terrarium, kokedama or bonsai workshop for the team, at our studio or on your premises. Everyone leaves with their creation, which extends the effect of a gift while creating time together. The idea is described on our botanical team-building page and in our guide to organising team building in Rabat. If you’re torn between the two formats, read terrarium or kokedama: which to choose for team building.

To install plants in your offices for the long term rather than giving them away, see our office planting page.

Mistakes to avoid

• Ordering too late. The longer you wait, the narrower the choice: quantities depend on our supplies.
• Choosing a demanding plant for recipients who have neither the light nor the habit.
• Overlooking the care sheet. A plant without instructions all too often ends up in the bin.
• Overdoing the logo. The tag is discreet; the goal is for the plant to stay on the desk.
• Forgetting the logistics: addresses, people present to receive the delivery, times.
• Not leaving a margin if the plant must arrive for a specific event.

A word on accounting

The tax rules for business gifts depend on their nature and unit value. Have your budget approved by your accountant before ordering. We provide an invoice and purchase order on request.

How to request a quote

The quote is free and we reply within 48 hours. To speed things up, include:

• the number of pieces and the collection you have in mind (or “to be decided together”);
• the desired delivery date and the delivery location(s);
• your budget per piece, if you have one;
• the logo and card text, if they’re ready.

A sample is possible before ordering. Everything happens on our corporate gifts page: quote request or WhatsApp.

Frequently asked questions

What budget should I plan for a botanical corporate gift?

From 150 MAD per piece for a personalised plant to 450 MAD for a terrarium, with a gift box from 280 MAD and a kokedama from 350 MAD. Volume discounts start at 20 pieces.

What’s the minimum order?

Ten pieces. For smaller quantities, the shop has a “gifts” category.

What’s the lead time?

Three weeks between approval of the quote and delivery, longer for very large runs. For December, order in October or November.

Can we add the company logo?

Yes, on an engraved wooden tag attached to the plant. The handwritten card and the container can also be personalised.

Do you deliver to Casablanca?

Yes: we deliver to Rabat, Salé, Témara and Casablanca. Collection is also possible from the studio in the Aviation district of Rabat.

Which plant should we choose for hundreds of employees?

A plant that tolerates neglect and doesn’t need much light, with a care sheet. Our guide which plant to give a colleague or client sets out the criteria.

Can we see a sample before ordering?

Yes, that’s possible. Mention it in your quote request.

Is a plant a good gift for someone without green fingers?

Yes, provided you choose a tolerant species and include a care sheet. The Gift Box is designed with this in mind: it brings together the plant, Signature Potting Mix, everything to care for it and a care sheet.

Do you issue invoices?

Yes, an invoice and purchase order are provided on request.

Also worth reading

• Which plant to give a colleague or client?
• Giving a plant: the botanical gift guide
• How to organise team building in Rabat
• Plants in an air-conditioned office
• Easy-care houseplants in Rabat: eight safe bets

Planning gifts for your teams or clients? Request a quote on our corporate gifts page or message us on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm.

Reading a potting soil label: peat, compost, fertiliser, pH… what really needs checking

In front of a shelf of potting soils, every bag looks the same: a brown background, a photo of green leaves, a promise of “radiant plants”. The difference is on the label, and it’s the part people read least. A bag of potting soil isn’t a trivial purchase: it’s your roots’ home for the next one to three years. Here’s how to decode what’s written — and what should be.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

A good potting soil label lists its components in full, says whether it contains peat and in what proportion, gives the volume in litres, states the pH and whether there’s any added fertiliser, and names a manufacturer and an origin. Be wary of vague terms (“plant soil”, “organic matter”) and words that sound good but guarantee nothing (“natural”, “eco-friendly”).

The eight points to check:

1. The product name: potting soil, growing medium, soil improver, fertiliser? They’re not the same thing.
2. The composition, component by component.
3. Peat: whether it’s there, and under what name.
4. Added fertiliser: how much, and for how long.
5. The pH.
6. The volume in litres, and the price per litre.
7. The claims (“organic”, “peat-free”, “natural”) and what they guarantee.
8. Manufacturer, origin and storage.

Contents

• Potting soil, growing medium, soil improver, fertiliser: what’s what?
• The composition: the most important point
• Peat, sphagnum, peat moss: spotting peat
• Added fertiliser: how much, and for how long?
• pH: why it matters
• Volume: litres, not kilos
• Claims: what they guarantee, and what they don’t
• Manufacturer, origin, storage
• What the label doesn’t say: inspecting the bag
• How to choose by the label
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

Potting soil, growing medium, soil improver, fertiliser: what’s what?

These words don’t mean the same thing, and confusing them leads to poor purchases.

The roles of each ingredient are described in our guide to soil improvers and in the complete guide to potting mixes.

The composition: the most important point

A useful label lists each component. It says, for example, “green waste compost, coco fibre, pine bark, perlite” rather than “organic and mineral matter”. The information varies a great deal from one bag to another: some detail everything, others almost nothing.

What to look for:

• The components and their proportions (as a percentage or by volume), as far as possible.
• Materials that give structure: coco fibre, bark, perlite, pozzolana, vermiculite. Without them, potting soil compacts.
• Materials that feed and retain: compost, biochar, fibres.
• Clean materials: “green waste compost” is reassuring; “municipal waste compost” less so, as it can contain particles of plastic or glass.

Warning signs: no list of components; “plant soil” or “soil” as the main component; no proportions; a photo of a lush plant but no information on the contents.

Peat, sphagnum, peat moss: spotting peat

Peat has been the base material of most shop-bought potting soils for decades: light, highly absorbent and almost sterile. It appears on labels under several names:

• peat, white peat, black peat;
• sphagnum peat, sphagnum (meaning the peat);
• peat, peat moss, sphagnum peat (on imported bags, in English).

Don’t confuse it with sphagnum moss (live or dried moss), which is the moss itself, living or dried, sold for orchids or terrariums.

We explained in detail why peat is a problem in our article on compost. It still has a technical use for acid-loving plants such as azaleas and hydrangeas. For the vast majority of houseplants, a peat-free mix works very well, as long as it’s well formulated.

Reading tip: a “peat-free” claim should come with a detailed composition. If the label says “peat-free” but lists nothing, the promise is worthless. Conversely, a bag that mentions peat isn’t necessarily bad: it’s information, to weigh up against your choice.

Added fertiliser: how much, and for how long?

Some potting soils are “enriched” with fertiliser. The label may show three numbers, such as NPK 14-16-18: these are the nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) contents of the fertiliser added to the mix. On potting soil, they’re often expressed in kilos per cubic metre rather than as a percentage of the bag: check the unit given. The higher the values, the more fertiliser has been added.

• An enriched potting soil feeds for the first few weeks, usually four to six weeks. During that time you don’t need fertiliser: see our repotting guide.
• The small coloured beads you see in some mixes are slow-release fertilisers, usually synthetic. They’re neither good nor bad in themselves, but you should know they’re there.
• Fertiliser doesn’t replace light or good watering: see when to water.

A potting soil “without fertiliser” isn’t a bad potting soil: it lets you manage nutrition yourself, with an organic fertiliser when the plant is growing.

pH: why it matters

pH measures the acidity of the potting mix. It determines whether nutrients are available: at the wrong pH, iron, manganese or phosphorus become inaccessible, even if they’re present.

• For most houseplants, a pH of around 5.5 to 6.5 is right.
• A serious label states it, sometimes as a range.
• If your water is hard, as in most Moroccan cities, the pH of the potting mix rises over time: see tap water and your plants.

Volume: litres, not kilos

Potting soil is sold by the litre. A “10 kg” bag may contain little material if the soil is waterlogged. Always compare the price per litre.

For example, horticultural perlite costs 20 MAD per litre in the 1-litre size and 14 MAD per litre in the 5-litre size (70 MAD). The size changes the price per litre, but also the delivery cost, which weighs less on a large bag. The potting mixes in our shop come in 1, 2 and 5 litres (2 and 5 litres for Signature Potting Mix and the cactus mix).

Claims: what they guarantee, and what they don’t

“Of organic origin” means “from living things”. It doesn’t mean “organic” in the certified sense. When in doubt, always go back to the list of components: that’s what the manufacturer is committed to.

Manufacturer, origin, storage

• A manufacturer’s name and address, so you know who to ask.
• An origin: local or imported. A product made near you has travelled less; either way, the origin should be stated.
• A date of manufacture or expiry, or at least a batch number.
• Storage conditions: keep the bag closed, away from heat and damp. An opened bag left open attracts gnats.

What the label doesn’t say: inspecting the bag

Once the bag is open, a few seconds are enough to judge what you’ve bought.

• The smell: it should remind you of damp earth or the forest floor. A smell of ammonia or rot signals immature compost: see how to recognise mature compost.
• The look: dark brown, crumbly, even. No white mould, no fragments of plastic or glass.
• The moisture: the mix should be slightly moist, neither soaked nor dusty.
• The handful test: squeeze a handful. It should hold a loose shape, then crumble without running. If it’s pasty, it’s too dense; if it doesn’t hold together at all, it’s too dry or too mineral.

How to choose by the label

To go further on choosing a mix by plant, see which potting mix for which plant, and to compare an all-purpose mix with one designed for tropical plants, all-purpose compost or Signature Potting Mix.

Frequently asked questions

What does NPK mean on a bag of potting soil?

It’s the nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) content of the fertiliser added to the potting soil. It shows how enriched it is, and the unit (percentage or kilos per cubic metre) should be stated on the bag.

How do you spot peat on a label?

Look for the words “peat”, “white peat”, “sphagnum” (meaning the peat) or “peat moss”. If the composition isn’t listed, ask the seller or the manufacturer.

Is “peat-free” potting soil better?

Not automatically: it depends on what replaces it. A good peat-free mix combines compost, fibres and draining materials. A poor peat-free mix can compact or dry out. It’s the composition that counts.

All-purpose compost or potting soil for foliage plants?

All-purpose compost is versatile but often denser. Potting soil for foliage or tropical plants should in principle be airier. The composition tells you which is which: see all-purpose compost or Signature Potting Mix.

What pH for houseplants?

Around 5.5 to 6.5 for most. Acid-loving plants have different needs.

Does potting soil go off?

It doesn’t expire like food, but it ages: the nutrients run out and the structure compacts. A bag left open for several months attracts gnats. Keep it closed and dry.

Can you reuse old potting soil?

If the plant was healthy, you can mix it with mature compost and perlite to give it back some structure. If it was sick or infested, throw it away.

Should you add fertiliser to an already enriched potting soil?

Not for the first four to six weeks. After that, a light feed during the growing season.

Also worth reading

• The complete guide to houseplant potting mixes
• Compost: why it should replace peat
• All-purpose compost or Signature Potting Mix
• Biochar: what does it do in potting soil?
• Fertiliser for houseplants: compost tea and seaweed

Puzzled by a label? Send us a photo of the bag on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm.

Which potting mix for which houseplant? Monstera, Calathea, Alocasia, orchids, cacti…

There’s no such thing as a “good potting soil” that works for every plant. A Monstera, a Calathea, an orchid and a cactus have roots made for soils that have almost nothing in common. The right mix follows from a single question: how does this plant live in the wild? Here are the families most common in Moroccan homes, and the mix that suits each.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

Choose the potting mix according to the plant’s native habitat: a rich, airy mix for tropical understorey plants (Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos), moister but without stagnation for Calatheas and ferns, bark for orchids, and a very mineral mix for cacti and succulents. The proportions below are starting points to adjust to your pot, your light and your watering rhythm.

Contents

• The reference table
• Why the potting mix depends on the plant
• Climbing aroids: Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, Syngonium
• Alocasia and Anthurium
• Calathea, Maranta, Stromanthe
• Ferns and Spathiphyllum
• Ficus, Dracaena, Schefflera: indoor trees
• Peperomia, Pilea, Hoya: the semi-succulents
• Zamioculcas and Sansevieria
• Cacti and succulents
• Orchids
• Cuttings and seedlings
• Ready-to-use or mix your own?
• How to make your mix
• How to adjust for your situation
• How to tell the potting mix isn’t right
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

The reference table

Proportions by volume. “Rich base” means a quality indoor potting soil, which can be blended with sieved mature compost (around 10 to 30% of the volume of the base).

Why the potting mix depends on the plant

A potting mix does two things: holds water and lets air through. All plants need both, but in different proportions.

• A damp understorey plant (Calathea, fern) wants water available continuously, but not standing.
• A climbing rainforest plant (Monstera, Philodendron) has roots that cling to tree trunks: it needs air and a fibrous mix.
• An epiphytic plant (orchid) grows on trees, without soil: its roots die in potting soil.
• A desert plant (cactus) lives on mineral soils where water drains away at once.

The ingredients, their properties and their limits are described in our guide to soil improvers and in the complete guide to potting mixes.

Climbing aroids: Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, Syngonium

Recommended mix: one part rich base, one part fibres (coco chips or bark), one part perlite. Add a small handful of charged biochar if you have some: see our article on biochar.

These plants grow in tropical forests, where their roots cling to tree trunks and reach down into airy humus. In a pot, potting soil on its own compacts and holds too much water. Adding coco chips or bark and perlite keeps it aerated. For large Monsteras or Philodendrons, a little pozzolana weighs down and steadies the pot.

Alocasia and Anthurium

Recommended mix: our Signature Potting Mix, designed for these demanding plants. If mixing your own, aim for a light, rich mix that holds moisture without standing water: one part rich base, one part fine bark, one part perlite.

Alocasia is demanding: too dry and it loses its leaves; too wet and its rhizomes rot. Anthurium, originally an epiphyte, appreciates a very airy mix: give it more bark. For both, light and watering matter as much as the mix: see light.

Calathea, Maranta, Stromanthe

Recommended mix: two parts rich base, one part coco chips or vermiculite, one part perlite.

These understorey plants want a mix that’s constantly slightly moist without being soggy. Vermiculite or coco holds the water; perlite prevents suffocation. They’re also sensitive to salts: a mix that crusts up with limescale burns their tips. We go into this in tap water and your plants.

Ferns and Spathiphyllum

Recommended mix: two parts rich base, one part coco chips, one part perlite. Spathiphyllum is happy with two parts potting soil to one part perlite.

Ferns appreciate organic matter and humidity. Spathiphyllum is tolerant, with one quirk: it lets you know straight away that it’s thirsty by drooping its leaves, then perks up after watering. For watering rhythms, see when to water.

Ficus, Dracaena, Schefflera: indoor trees

Recommended mix: two parts rich base, one part bark, one part perlite or pozzolana.

These plants become large and heavy. So the mix needs structure, mustn’t compact, and should weigh the pot down a little. Pozzolana doesn’t break down and helps steady large pots. For big plants, top-dressing (replacing the top three to five centimetres) avoids a full repot: see our repotting guide.

Peperomia, Pilea, Hoya: the semi-succulents

Recommended mix: one part rich base, one part perlite, one part fine bark.

Their fine roots and fleshy leaves store a little water: they fear excess more than drought. A light, airy mix suits them. Hoya, which climbs in the forest, also likes bark.

Zamioculcas and Sansevieria

Recommended mix: one part rich base, one part perlite, one part pozzolana.

These plants have rhizomes or thick roots that store water. A mix that holds too much moisture makes them rot. They tolerate drought, never stagnation. If you’re just starting out with these species, see our easy-care houseplants for Rabat.

Cacti and succulents

Recommended mix: our cactus and succulent mix, or equal parts rich base, pozzolana and perlite — one third rich material to two thirds mineral. For desert cacti, go down to one part base to three parts mineral.

It’s all detailed in our guide to cactus potting mix. The Cactus and Succulent Kit brings together the mix and pozzolana for drainage and a top layer. Avoid beach sand (salt) and fine builder’s sand (it clogs).

Orchids

Recommended mix: bark, with a few coco chips. No potting soil.

The orchids in our homes (Phalaenopsis) are epiphytes: their roots live in the air, clinging to trees. In potting soil, they die of suffocation. A clear or slotted pot lets you keep an eye on the roots.

Cuttings and seedlings

Recommended mix: vermiculite and perlite, a fine, light mix. Vermiculite keeps the moisture steady; perlite prevents suffocation.

Ready-to-use or mix your own?

Our potting mixes come in 1, 2 and 5-litre sizes (2 and 5 litres for Signature Potting Mix and the cactus mix), which makes large quantities more economical: see the potting mixes category. To choose between an all-purpose compost and a mix designed for tropical plants, read all-purpose compost or Signature Potting Mix.

How to make your mix

1. Lightly moisten the rich base: dry potting soil is water-repellent and mixes badly.
2. Soak the coco chips for a few minutes before use: they swell and lose their salts.
3. Mix the ingredients on a mat or in a tub until the texture is even.
4. Do the handful test: squeeze a handful of moist mix. It should hold a loose shape, then crumble at a touch without running. If it stays pasty, add perlite; if it doesn’t hold together at all, add rich base.
5. Repot following the steps in our guide.

How to adjust for your situation

• Terracotta pot: it dries quickly. Keep more rich base and fibres.
• Plastic or glazed ceramic pot: it holds water. Lighten the mix with more perlite.
• Frequent waterer or forgetful one? More water retention if you forget, more drainage if you water often.
• Low light: the plant drinks less and the mix dries slowly. Choose an airier mix: see plants for a dimly lit office.
• Winter: the mix dries more slowly; water less often: see autumn and winter care.

How to tell the potting mix isn’t right

Frequently asked questions

Which potting mix for a Monstera?

A rich, airy mix: one part indoor potting soil, one part coco chips or bark, one part perlite. Avoid potting soil on its own, which compacts.

Which potting mix for a Calathea?

A moist, rich mix: two parts potting soil, one part coco chips or vermiculite, one part perlite. Water with soft water.

Which potting mix for an Alocasia?

A light, rich, airy mix. Our Signature Potting Mix is designed for these plants.

Which potting mix for an orchid?

Bark, not potting soil. Phalaenopsis, the most common indoor orchids, are epiphytes: their roots live in the air.

Can I use one potting soil for all my plants?

You can, but it doesn’t suit plants with extreme needs (cacti, orchids). An indoor potting soil improved with perlite and fibres covers most tropical plants.

Should I add sand to potting soil?

No — especially not fine sand: it fills the pores in the mix and sets hard as it dries. Choose perlite or pozzolana instead.

Perlite or pozzolana?

Perlite is light and aerates; pozzolana is heavy, long-lasting and steadies large pots. Both drain. See our comparison.

How long does a potting mix last?

Usually one to three years. After that, it compacts, becomes depleted and holds water differently: it’s time to repot.

Also worth reading

• The complete guide to houseplant potting mixes
• Repotting a houseplant
• Reading a potting soil label
• Perlite, vermiculite, pozzolana, coco chips
• Cactus and succulent potting mix

Not sure about a mix? Tell us your plant and your pot on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm.

Black soap and houseplant pests: mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, fungus gnats

A plant covered in tiny insects is one of the most disheartening sights. Black soap is often the first response, and it’s a good one: simple, inexpensive and effective against many pests. Provided you know which ones it works on, and use it properly. Badly dosed or badly applied, it damages the leaves as much as the insects. And against other pests, such as fungus gnats, it’s useless.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

Black soap works on contact against soft-bodied pests: aphids, mealybugs, whitefly and spider mites. It has to touch the insect, and it has no lasting effect: so repeat the treatment every five to seven days, three or four times.

• Dosage: none for our ready-to-use black soap; a concentrated soap is diluted according to its label, never stronger. Test on a single leaf one to two days beforehand.
• When: early in the morning or late in the day, never in full sun.
• Won’t fix fungus gnats (the problem is excess moisture), or adult armoured scale (remove by hand).
• Avoid on hairy or powdery leaves, very tender young shoots and stressed plants.

Contents

• What is black soap for plants?
• How does black soap work on insects?
• Which pest, which treatment?
• How to use black soap, step by step
• Which plants don’t tolerate black soap well?
• Black soap or washing-up liquid?
• Fungus gnats: black soap isn’t the answer
• Ants: a clue not to ignore
• How do you know the treatment is working?
• Precautions to take
• Prevention is better
• When black soap isn’t enough
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

What is black soap for plants?

Black soap is a liquid soap made from saponified vegetable oils, traditionally prepared with potash. It isn’t a detergent: it can’t be replaced with washing-up liquid or a scented or coloured soap, whose additives can burn leaves. For plants, choose a black soap with no fragrance or additives.

Our black soap for plants comes in a ready-to-use 200 ml spray bottle: nothing to measure — just shake and spray. It cleans the foliage and, used every month, helps protect it from pests and diseases.

How does black soap work on insects?

Black soap works on contact. It dissolves the thin protective layer of soft-bodied pests and dehydrates them. Two important consequences:

• It must touch the insects. A spray that misses its targets is useless. That means aiming at the undersides of leaves, leaf joints and stems.
• It has no lasting effect. Once dry, it no longer protects. Eggs that hatch after the treatment aren’t affected — hence the need to repeat.

Which pest, which treatment?

Spider mites thrive in dry air, especially in air-conditioned spaces: we explain this in our article on plants in air-conditioned offices.

How to use black soap, step by step

1. Isolate the plant from the others to avoid spreading the problem.
2. Respect the dosage. Our black soap is ready to use: apply it as it is, without diluting or strengthening it. A concentrated soap, on the other hand, is diluted according to its label: too strong and it burns the foliage; too weak and it doesn’t work.
3. Test on a single leaf and wait one to two days. If it doesn’t react (no spots, no yellowing), you can treat the whole plant.
4. Choose the right time: early in the morning or late in the day, never in full sun or intense heat.
5. Protect the pot: cover the surface of the potting mix with film or a bag so the soap doesn’t run into it.
6. Spray everything: tops and undersides of leaves, stems, leaf joints — wherever insects hide. A fine-mist spray bottle gives an even coating.
7. Rinse with clean water after a few hours if a film remains on the foliage, especially indoors.
8. Repeat every five to seven days, three or four times: a single treatment doesn’t kill the following generations.
9. As well, wipe off colonies with a damp cloth or cotton bud, and cut back badly affected parts.

Hard water reduces its effectiveness

Soap reacts with limescale. In hard water, it forms insoluble deposits and loses some of its effectiveness, just as in your bathroom. As tap water is hard in many Moroccan cities, it’s best to dilute a concentrated soap in rainwater or filtered water. We explain the effects of limescale on plants in tap water and your plants.

Which plants don’t tolerate black soap well?

Always test first, and be especially careful with:

• plants with hairy leaves (African violets, some Begonias);
• powdery or waxy leaves: many succulents have a fine protective bloom that rubs off;
• ferns and very tender young shoots;
• plants in flower: avoid the petals;
• plants already under stress (drought, heatwave);
• Calathea and Maranta, with their delicate leaves: test on one leaf, or opt for washing with water and wiping instead.

For simple dust on leaves, lukewarm water and a soft cloth are usually enough and avoid any risk of residue. Our plant cleaning gloves are made for this.

Black soap or washing-up liquid?

Black soap. Washing-up liquid is a detergent: it contains surfactants, fragrances and preservatives that attack the leaf cuticle and burn easily. Black soap, made for this purpose, is gentler and more predictable.

Fungus gnats: black soap isn’t the answer

The little black flies buzzing around your pots are fungus gnats. The adults are a nuisance, but it’s the larvae, living in damp potting mix, that are the problem. Black soap doesn’t treat them: the real lever is moisture.

• Let the top two to three centimetres of potting mix dry out between waterings: see when to water.
• Empty saucers and improve drainage: see our drainage guide.
• Cover the surface with a layer of pozzolana or clay pebbles: adults lay fewer eggs there.
• Put up yellow sticky traps to catch the adults.
• Check your compost or potting soil: young, immature compost attracts gnats. See how to recognise mature compost.
• There is also a treatment based on the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis; ask a garden supplier.

Ants: a clue not to ignore

If you see ants on a plant, look for aphids or mealybugs. Ants “farm” these insects for their honeydew and protect them from predators. Treating the pests without dealing with the ants means starting again a few weeks later.

How do you know the treatment is working?

• After three or four days, you should see fewer live insects and no new colonies.
• Dead insects often stay stuck to the plant: wipe them off so you don’t mistake them for an active infestation.
• If new insects appear, repeat: eggs hatch at different times.
• If nothing changes after two or three treatments, it may be a different pest: have it identified before carrying on (a photo is often enough).

Precautions to take

• No treatment in full sun, or on a stressed plant.
• Outdoors, target the affected areas: soap also reaches beneficial insects such as ladybirds.
• Don’t pour it into a pond or waterway: it’s harmful to aquatic life, even though it’s biodegradable.
• Don’t mix it with other products.
• Keep it out of reach of children and pets.

Prevention is better

• Inspect your plants every week, looking at the undersides of the leaves.
• Quarantine new plants for about two weeks before putting them near the others.
• Avoid air that’s too dry, which encourages spider mites.
• Clean the foliage from time to time with a cloth or cleaning gloves.
• Get the basics right: a well-placed, well-watered plant is more resistant. See light and watering.

The Plant Care Kit brings together our three care products: compost tea root feed, seaweed foliar feed and black soap for plants. A well-fed plant with clean foliage, inspected every month, resists pests better. Each product is also sold separately.

When black soap isn’t enough

With a well-established infestation, several treatments aren’t always enough. Cut back badly affected parts, isolate the plant and continue treatment over several weeks. If nothing changes, have the pest identified before carrying on: a photo sent on WhatsApp to 06 61 05 26 38 often helps settle the question. If the plant is beyond saving, it’s better to throw it away than let it infect the others.

Frequently asked questions

Does black soap kill mealybugs?

It works well on mealybugs and young larvae, less so on adults protected by a shield or a waxy coating. In that case, remove them by hand before treating.

Does black soap get rid of fungus gnats?

No. Fungus gnats are a problem of damp potting mix. Let the surface dry, empty saucers and cover the mix with pozzolana or clay pebbles.

What dilution of black soap for plants?

None for our ready-to-use black soap: spray it as it is. For a concentrated soap, follow its label: the dilution varies with the concentration, which is why no single figure applies to every bottle. Test on one leaf before treating the whole plant.

How often should you apply black soap?

Every five to seven days, three or four times, until the insects have completely disappeared. One application isn’t enough.

Can black soap be used on all houseplants?

No. Hairy, powdery or very tender leaves don’t tolerate it well. Always test on one leaf and wait one to two days.

Does black soap leave a smell?

It has a distinctive smell that fades as it dries. Rinsing with clean water a few hours after treatment reduces it.

Can I treat a plant that’s near cats or dogs?

Treat the plant out of their reach, let it dry, then put it back in its place. Black soap must be kept out of reach of pets.

Where can I buy black soap for plants in Rabat?

Our ready-to-use black soap for plants, in a 200 ml spray bottle, is available online, with delivery (40 MAD) and payment on delivery, or for collection from the studio at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district.

Also worth reading

• Plants in an air-conditioned office
• Is tap water harming your plants?
• Drainage: clay pebbles, pots without holes, saucers
• When should you water your plants?
• Repotting a houseplant

Not sure what’s attacking your plant? Send us a photo on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm. The Gardening & Plants Morning (150 MAD) also has a “Plant Doctor” corner.

Drainage for houseplants: clay pebbles, pots without holes, saucers — what really works

Root rot is one of the most common causes of houseplant loss, and it often comes from water that can’t escape. Hence all the drainage advice: clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot, gravel, crocks, pots without holes, saucers… a good deal of which is wrong. Here’s what really works, and why.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

No, a layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot doesn’t drain: it does the opposite, bringing standing water closer to the roots. What really drains is holes in the bottom of the pot, an airy potting mix through the full height of the pot and a saucer you empty.

• Pots without holes: keep them for use as cover pots. The plant stays in a nursery pot with holes, which you lift out to water.
• Saucers: empty within half an hour of watering.
• Clay pebbles: useful mixed into the potting mix, as a surface mulch, or as a bed under the pot inside a planter. Not at the bottom of the pot.
• Self-watering planters: suited to plants that like to stay moist, not to cacti.

Contents

• Why drainage decides a plant’s health
• Does a layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot drain?
• What are clay pebbles really for?
• The four real tools of drainage
• Can you keep a plant in a pot without a hole?
• Saucers: empty them or leave them?
• Self-watering planters: who are they for?
• How to tell if your drainage is good
• Saving a plant with “wet feet”
• Which drainage for which plant?
• And in a terrarium?
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

Why drainage decides a plant’s health

A root doesn’t just drink: it breathes. It needs oxygen, and oxygen circulates in the tiny gaps in the potting mix. When those gaps stay filled with water, the root suffocates, fungi move in and it rots.

Good drainage, then, means letting excess water run away after watering so that air returns to the mix. The signs of poor drainage are recognisable: potting mix that stays wet for days on end, lower leaves yellowing, soft stems at the base, a musty smell, tiny gnats around the pot, a green or white crust on the surface.

Does a layer of clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot drain?

No. The idea seems logical: with pebbles at the bottom, water would pass through the gaps between them and drain away quickly. In reality, water doesn’t behave like that.

Water moves through a fine potting mix by capillary action, a bit like a sponge. When it reaches the boundary between that fine mix and a coarse material (pebbles, gravel, crocks), it doesn’t pass through until the fine mix is saturated. So it builds up just above the pebble layer, in a waterlogged zone known as a perched water table. The result: this saturated zone, which always exists at the bottom of a pot, is raised by the full thickness of the pebble layer, and the aerated zone where the roots live shrinks by the same amount.

In other words, 5 cm of pebbles at the bottom of a 20 cm pot means 5 cm less potting mix and a saturated zone raised by 5 cm — closer to the roots. This has been documented notably by horticulturist Linda Chalker-Scott of Washington State University, who recommends a potting mix with no drainage layer and pots with holes (read her article).

The practical conclusion is the same as in our repotting guide: put nothing at the bottom of the pot except a small piece of mesh or a crock to cover the hole and hold the mix in.

What are clay pebbles really for?

Clay pebbles are useful. They’re light and porous, don’t break down, and absorb a little water to release it later. But not at the bottom of the pot.

If you want to improve drainage in a mix, think first of ingredients that blend through the whole volume: perlite, pozzolana, bark and coco chips. The role of each is detailed in our guide to soil improvers.

The four real tools of drainage

1. A pot with holes. One or more good-sized holes in the bottom. It’s the basic requirement.
2. An airy potting mix through the full height of the pot. Water should pass through the mix without sitting, within ten seconds or so at most. To choose one for your plant, see the complete guide to potting mixes.
3. A pot of the right size. An oversized pot holds a mass of wet potting mix that the roots don’t use.
4. Watering that adapts. The best drainage won’t fix watering that’s too frequent: see when to water.

Can you keep a plant in a pot without a hole?

Yes, but not as a growing pot. A decorative container with no hole works very well as a cover pot: the plant stays in a nursery pot with holes, which slips inside the decorative container. Lift out the inner pot to water, let it drain, then put it back. It’s the simplest, safest solution.

Our faux leather and jute planter is designed this way, with no drainage hole, for use as a cover pot only. Our Fez leather planter is made to hold a standard 13, 16 or 22 cm plastic pot.

If you do plant in a container without a hole, water in small amounts several times rather than pouring a lot at once, and never give more than the mix can absorb. Check the bottom regularly by tilting the pot.

Terracotta pots

An unglazed terracotta pot lets water evaporate through its walls, which partly makes up for imperfect drainage. It dries faster than a plastic pot: adjust your watering accordingly. Cacti and succulents particularly like them, as we explain in our guide to cactus potting mix.

Saucers: empty them or leave them?

Empty them. A plant constantly sitting in water in its saucer draws that water up through the holes and keeps the bottom of its potting mix saturated. Empty the saucer within half an hour of watering.

Two exceptions: some waterside plants, such as papyrus (Cyperus), tolerate a permanent water reservoir; and you can deliberately water from below, standing the pot in a few centimetres of water for ten to thirty minutes and then taking it out. This method suits plants whose leaves dislike getting wet. If your water is hard, though, it leaves the salts at the surface: flush the mix from above from time to time, as we describe in the article on tap water.

Self-watering planters: who are they for?

Bottom-watering planters have a water reservoir in the base: the plant draws on it as it needs, letting you water less often. Our handmade ceramic planters are designed for watering from below, with a built-in saucer; the page for each size explains how to use it.

• They suit plants that appreciate steady moisture (Calathea, Maranta, ferns, Spathiphyllum), and absences of a few days.
• They don’t suit cacti, succulents or any plant that needs to dry out between waterings.
• Precautions: use an airy potting mix, let the reservoir empty from time to time rather than keeping it constantly topped up, and check that the bottom of the root ball isn’t permanently soaked.

How to tell if your drainage is good

The test is simple. Water the plant and watch:

• Water should soak in within ten seconds or so at most and come out of the holes. If it sits on the surface for more than about fifteen seconds, the mix is probably compacted or clogged.
• The potting mix should dry out within a few days to a week, not over several weeks. Touch it: see our watering advice.
• No musty smell and no green crust should appear on the surface.

Saving a plant with “wet feet”

1. Take out the root ball and look at the roots. Healthy ones are white or beige and firm; rotten ones are brown, soft or foul-smelling.
2. Remove the soggy potting mix, shaking it off or rinsing it away gently.
3. Cut off all the rotten roots with a clean tool, back to healthy tissue.
4. Repot in fresh, airy potting mix, in a pot with holes, ideally slightly smaller than the old one. The steps are in our repotting guide.
5. Water very little in the first week, put the plant in bright indirect light and don’t add fertiliser.

If more than half the roots are affected, the chances drop: take cuttings of whatever you can (healthy stems) while there’s still time.

Which drainage for which plant?

For a precise choice by family, see which potting mix for which plant.

And in a terrarium?

A terrarium has no hole, and yet plants live in it. That isn’t drainage: the layer of gravel or pebbles acts as a safety reservoir and a visual divider, not as a way to remove water. To make it work, you water drop by drop with a spoon and choose suitable plants. It’s one of the techniques we teach in our workshops: see the terrarium workshops or, for a team, the terrarium and kokedama team-building workshop. If you’d prefer a terrarium ready to give, see our mini cylinder terrarium.

Frequently asked questions

Should you put clay pebbles at the bottom of a pot?

No. A layer of pebbles doesn’t drain any better: it raises the saturated zone that exists at the bottom of the pot. A pot with holes and an airy potting mix are enough.

Do gravel or broken crocks help drainage?

No, for the same reason as pebbles. A small crock or a piece of mesh only serves to cover the hole and hold the mix in.

Can a plant live in a pot without a hole?

In some cases, but the risk of rot is high. The safest option is to keep it in a nursery pot with holes, slipped inside a cover pot.

How do you drill a ceramic pot?

With a ceramic or glass drill bit, at slow speed, keeping a trickle of water on the drilling point to prevent overheating. If the pot is glazed, put masking tape over the drilling point to stop the bit slipping.

How long should water stay in the saucer?

Half an hour at most, then empty it. Plants that tolerate a permanent reservoir are the exception.

Do you need a saucer?

Yes, to protect your furniture, but you must empty it. A cover pot can do the same job, as long as you empty that too.

Why does water run straight through the pot?

Often the root ball has dried out and become water-repellent, or the roots have created a channel. Soak the pot in water for ten to twenty minutes to rehydrate the whole root ball. If it keeps happening, the potting mix is exhausted: it’s time to repot.

Is a self-watering planter good for my plants?

For plants that like steady moisture, yes, provided you use an airy potting mix. For cacti and succulents, no.

Also worth reading

• Repotting a houseplant: when, how and which potting mix
• The complete guide to houseplant potting mixes
• Perlite, vermiculite, pozzolana, coco chips: which to choose?
• When should you water your plants?
• Is tap water harming your plants?

Unsure about a plant’s drainage? Describe the pot and potting mix to us on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm.

Repotting a houseplant: when, how, which pot and which potting mix

Repotting is an everyday task that worries a lot of people. They’re afraid of damaging the roots, choosing the wrong pot, doing more harm than good. These fears aren’t unfounded: repotting at the wrong time or into the wrong pot weakens a plant. Done well, it gives it a new lease of life for years. Here’s everything you need to know, in the order you’ll need it.

Guide written by the Instant T studio in Rabat, updated in October 2026.

At a glance

Repot in spring or early summer, every one to three years, into a pot 2 to 4 cm wider than the old one, with drainage holes, using an airy potting mix suited to the plant (never garden soil). Keep the base of the stem at the same height, water just once afterwards, and don’t add fertiliser for four to six weeks.

• Sign no. 1: roots coming out of the drainage holes or circling the root ball.
• Don’t: put pebbles or gravel at the bottom of the pot. It doesn’t drain — we explain why here.
• Only in an emergency (rotten roots, pests in the potting mix, a broken pot): repot out of season.

Contents

• How do you know it’s time to repot?
• When should you repot a houseplant?
• What size pot should you choose?
• Which potting mix for repotting?
• Repotting step by step
• And after repotting?
• The myth of the pebble layer at the bottom of the pot
• A few special cases
• Mistakes to avoid
• Frequently asked questions
• Also worth reading

How do you know it’s time to repot?

A plant needs repotting when its roots have run out of room or its potting mix is exhausted. The most reliable signs:

• Roots coming out of the drainage holes or appearing on the surface of the potting mix.
• Water runs straight through the pot without soaking the mix, or on the contrary sits on the surface: the mix has compacted and sometimes gone hard.
• The plant has stopped growing during the growing season, despite good light and proper watering.
• The potting mix is pulling away from the sides of the pot, or the pot is warping or cracking.
• The plant, too tall or too heavy, keeps toppling over.

The surest test is still easing it out: gently slide the root ball out of the pot. If the roots form a dense mat circling the root ball, it’s time. If the root ball falls apart and you see few roots, you’ve repotted too early or the problem lies elsewhere.

What isn’t necessarily a sign

A plant that’s yellowing or dropping leaves isn’t always asking to be repotted. The most common causes are poorly adjusted watering or a lack of light: first check your watering rhythm and the light in its spot. Repotting a plant that’s already stressed only adds more stress.

Some plants like to be snug

Spathiphyllum, Sansevieria, Chlorophytum and Hoya cope well with tight roots, and some even flower better that way. For these plants, repotting every two or three years, or even less often, is enough.

When should you repot a houseplant?

In spring or early summer, when the plant starts growing again. It’s then in full swing: it puts out new roots and recovers quickly from the shock. In Rabat, in practice, that means the period from March to early June, as soon as the days lengthen and new shoots appear.

Avoid autumn and winter, when the plant is running slow: it recovers poorly, and fresh potting mix stays wet for too long. What to do in that season is described in our autumn and winter guide. Also avoid summer heatwaves and plants in full flower.

What size pot should you choose?

A pot 2 to 4 cm wider than the old one, as a general rule. For a large, fast-growing plant (a Monstera or a Ficus lyrata, for example), you can go up to 5 cm, but no more.

The reason is simple: an oversized pot holds a lot of potting mix that the roots don’t use. That mix stays wet for a long time, the roots sit in water and rot. Moving from a 10 cm pot to a 25 cm pot “so it has room” is one of the most common mistakes.

These volumes are guidelines: the shape of the pot changes them. As a rule, plan to replace about half the volume of the new pot, with the rest taken up by the root ball.

The pot must have drainage holes

A pot without a drainage hole is one of the most common causes of root rot. If you love a decorative container with no hole, use it as a cover pot: the plant stays in its nursery pot with holes, which you lift out to water. Our faux leather and jute planter, for example, is designed purely as a cover pot, with no drainage hole. Pots without holes and saucers are covered in our drainage guide.

Terracotta, plastic or ceramic?

This choice changes your watering rhythm: a plant in terracotta dries out faster than one in plastic. Our handmade planters come in three diameters (13, 16 and 22 cm): the product page for each size explains how they work.

Which potting mix for repotting?

The potting mix should match the plant, not the latest trend. It must hold enough water for the roots to drink and let in enough air for them to breathe. To understand what each ingredient does, read our guide to soil improvers. For an overview, see the complete guide to potting mixes and choosing a potting mix by plant family.

If you’d rather not mix anything yourself, the Home Potting Mix Kit brings together perlite, vermiculite, coco chips and pozzolana. Note: these ingredients are added to potting soil or compost; they don’t feed the plant on their own. To choose between an all-purpose compost and a mix designed for tropical plants, see all-purpose compost or Signature Potting Mix.

Absolutely avoid garden soil. Too heavy, it compacts in a pot, suffocates the roots and may contain seeds and pests.

Repotting step by step

1. Water the plant a day or two beforehand. A slightly moist root ball slides out more easily and stresses the roots less. Neither soaked nor dry.
2. Prepare your workspace. A repotting mat limits the mess on the table or balcony, and a few mini tools make the job more precise. Lightly moisten the fresh potting mix.
3. Ease it out. Lay the pot on its side, tap the sides, then gently pull from the base of the plant — never by the stems.
4. Look at the roots. White or beige and firm, they’re healthy. Brown, soft or foul-smelling, they’re rotten: cut them off with a clean tool.
5. Untangle the ones going round in circles. With your fingertips, loosen the mat of roots to encourage them to explore the fresh mix.
6. Cover the hole with a piece of mesh or a crock if the mix might escape. That’s all: no layer of pebbles or gravel.
7. Put a little potting mix in the bottom, centre the plant, and keep the crown (where stems meet roots) at the same height as before.
8. Fill in around the root ball, tapping the pot to get rid of air pockets, without pressing down hard.
9. Water once, gently, until water runs out, then empty the saucer.
10. Let the plant recover: bright indirect light, no direct sun for one to two weeks, no fertiliser.

Should you cut the roots?

Only those that are dead or rotten. On a healthy plant with tight roots, untangle them or score them lightly rather than cutting them. If you have to remove a lot, choose a smaller pot so the mix dries quickly, and trim the foliage a little to rebalance the plant.

And after repotting?

• Watering: just one watering at planting time. After that, wait until the top few centimetres of mix are dry, checking with your finger. Fresh, airier potting mix sometimes dries faster than the old one: touch it, don’t follow a schedule.
• Light: bright and indirect. No direct sun for one to two weeks.
• Fertiliser: none for four to six weeks. Fresh potting mix already contains nutrients, and injured roots don’t cope well with salts. After that, a light feed during the growing season, from spring to late summer: see our fertiliser guide.
• A little drooping: slight drooping in the days that follow is common. The plant recovers within two to six weeks. If many leaves turn yellow, the potting mix is probably too wet.
• Water: if your tap water is hard, as in most Moroccan cities, read what limescale does to your plants.

The myth of the pebble layer at the bottom of the pot

Many people put a layer of clay pebbles, gravel or broken crocks at the bottom of the pot “to improve drainage”. It doesn’t work. When water meets a layer of coarse material beneath a finer mix, it builds up above that layer before passing through. There’s always a saturated zone at the bottom of a pot, but the pebble layer raises it by its full thickness: it brings the water closer to the roots instead of further away. This has been documented notably by horticulturist Linda Chalker-Scott of Washington State University.

What really drains: an airy potting mix through the full height of the pot, and drainage holes. Clay pebbles are still useful mixed into the potting mix, as a top layer, or in a self-watering system. It’s all explained in our article on drainage.

A few special cases

• A large plant in a large pot: rather than repotting, top-dress. Remove the top three to five centimetres of potting mix and replace them with fresh mix. This renews some of the nutrients without disturbing the roots.
• Cacti and succulents: repot them dry, wearing gloves, in a mineral mix, and wait a few days before the first watering. It’s all in our guide to cactus potting mix. The Cactus and Succulent Kit brings together the mix and pozzolana.
• Calathea, Maranta: plants sensitive to sudden change and to limescale. Repot them carefully in a light, moist mix and, if possible, water them with rainwater, filtered water or soft water.
• A newly bought plant: give it two to four weeks to acclimatise, unless the pot is unstable or the potting mix is visibly waterlogged or infested.
• A sick plant: if the potting mix smells bad or pests are hiding in it, repot without delay, remove as much of the old mix as possible and throw it away. For pests, see black soap and its limits.

Mistakes to avoid

• Choosing a far-too-big pot “so it has room”.
• Using a pot without a hole as a growing pot.
• Using garden soil.
• Pressing the potting mix down hard.
• Putting pebbles or gravel at the bottom.
• Burying the crown, or leaving it too high.
• Watering heavily several days in a row after repotting.
• Repotting a plant in flower or in the depths of winter.
• Feeding straight away.

Frequently asked questions

Can I repot a plant in summer?

You can if necessary, but it’s not the best time. Heatwaves already tire the plant. If you have to, choose a cool day, work in the shade and keep the plant out of direct sun afterwards.

Should I repot a plant as soon as I buy it?

Not immediately. Give it two to four weeks to adjust to its new light. Repot straight away only if the pot is unstable, the potting mix is waterlogged or you can see pests.

How long does a plant take to recover from repotting?

Usually two to six weeks. It may seem to stall: that’s normal — it’s re-establishing its roots before growing again.

Which pot should I choose for repotting?

A pot 2 to 4 cm wider than the old one, with drainage holes. Terracotta dries faster; plastic keeps moisture longer.

Should I put clay pebbles at the bottom of the pot?

No. A layer of pebbles won’t drain any better: it raises the saturated zone closer to the roots. Mix perlite, coco chips or pozzolana into the potting mix instead.

Can I repot a plant that’s in flower?

It’s better to wait until flowering is over: the plant is already using a lot of energy, and repotting stresses it.

When should you definitely not repot?

In the depths of winter when there’s no emergency, during a heatwave, or when the plant is already badly weakened by too much or too little water. Fix the cause first, then repot.

How much potting mix will I need?

About half the volume of the new pot. For a new 16 cm pot, allow one litre; for a 25 cm pot, three to four litres. Our potting mixes come in 1, 2 and 5-litre sizes (2 and 5 litres for Signature Potting Mix and the cactus mix).

Also worth reading

• The complete guide to houseplant potting mixes
• Drainage: clay pebbles, pots without holes, saucers
• Which potting mix for which plant?
• When should you water your plants? Forget the calendar, touch the soil
• Compost: why it should replace peat

Not sure about the pot or the mix? Message us on WhatsApp at 06 61 05 26 38. The studio is at 6 Rue Zemmour, Aviation district, Rabat, Monday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm. The Gardening & Plants Morning (150 MAD) also has a “Plant Doctor” corner.